Decanter: 96 Points
The team's work at Domaine de la Commaraine is truly exciting and the potential can be seen in this sample blend of the new vintage. The wine boasts a forward luxurious blackberry and pomegranate aroma with hints of violets spice and smoke. The texture is lush and dense but abundant with well-managed tannins substantial extract and an immensely long finish. The grapes are from the eponymous 3.63-hectare Clos although some have been declassified by régisseur Paul Krug who formerly worked with Pedro Para. This domaine is definitely one to watch. (Drink between 2027-2055)
Jasper Morris: 92-95 Points
The blend has been made up for this sample. Some of it has been racked but some not. The nose is powerful with structure definitely ungiving. The grapes are pretty ripe here with a good tension behind and many layers of dark fruit flavour The succulence takes precedence over any rigidity of structure. There remains a slight bitterness at the finish which I take as a good thing for long term ageing.
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Wine Advocate: 91-93 Points
The 2022 Pommard 1er Cru Clos de la Commaraine Monopole wafts from the glass with aromas of dark berries spices and licorice framed by toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied layered and fleshy with an elegantly muscular chassis of sweet powdery tannins and a long expansive finish it shows more depth and density than this new winery's debut efforts did. Since my last visit to Domaine de la Commaraine there have been several evolutions?not least that the young Paul Krug has been appointed régisseur. In addition to the estate's eponymous enclosed vineyard amounting to some 3.6 hectares there have been acquisitions in the Côte de Nuits in 2020 and Saint-Aubin in 2022. It's in the clos however that Krug has broken the most ground?literally. With the help of his mentor soil expert Pedro Parra he has divided the vineyard into eight separate plots which are managed separately with different approaches to cultivation. Conversion to Guyot Poussard pruning is underway a massal selection is being isolated from vines planted in the 1950s and a block planted in the 1980s with poor quality genetics has been t-budded over to superior selections of Pinot with success. In the cellar destemming remains the order of the day for the most part and the use of sulfites is minimal?backed up with a lot of analysis of course. New oak runs at some 50% not in itself a problem though there might be gains in integration to be made by the choice of less impactful toasts. All in all this estate is going in very much the right direction.
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